What Up, Gold? (Layperson's Guide to Karat, Vermeil and Filled)

September 13, 2019

24k Vermeil Tiny Deluxe Shield Necklaces

Howdy Jewelry Fans! I love Silver, but have been attracted more and more to ease of wearing gold (Silver oxidation is REAL and does happen. Plating in Rhodium to avoid oxidation isn't great for the environment and leads to ethical concerns and conscientious objections from my inner tree hugger). I hear from OSJ Fans that you love the carefree care of gold and the luxe sheen of high carat gold. But with all the options out there, what in the heck do all the different types of "gold" mean? 

Let's get Nerdy for a bit, shall we? As I've been working with more Gold, I find myself talking about the karat, purity, strength, color and attributes of the different types of Gold in Original Sin Jewelry's Collections at shows. Since my website is a 24 hours a day, 365 (and 1/4) days a year show, it makes sense to talk about it here too. Right?

First, there's Gold. The purity of Gold is expressed in Karat's. 24k Gold is 100% gold, 18k is 18/24 parts gold (75%) and 14k Gold is 14/24 parts gold (roughly 58%). I'm not sure how humans started using 24 parts of gold to represent 100%, but it happened and we are where we are today. (Gemstone carats are another anomaly, but let's leave those aside for another Journal Entry.) 

Next there is Gold Filled. Which is a bit of a misnomer. Gold Filled isn't actually filled with gold, the gold is the outside layer. The filled part is a base metal and can be brass or nickel. Gold is applied to the inner layer through a heat and pressure bond and is normally approximately 5% Gold. 

Finally, we come to plating, the underlying method for creating Vermeil. However, all plating is not created equally. Regular gold plating is a molecule or two thick layer of gold adhering to a base metal. Gold plating has a bad reputation. It often wears off to a not so nice metal underneath. And it's a super thin layer. Yuck.

Vermeil, however, is thick Gold plating over Silver. It's called "Heavy Gold Electroplate" and must legally have a measurement of 100 millionths. I use 120 millionths, 20% over the legal standards. Most folks use Sterling Silver, but as I fabricate mostly in Fine Silver (except for structural elements), my Vermeil is primarily over Fine Silver. In addition, I use a nickel free process. I'm allergic to Nickel, a lot of you are allergic to Nickel and I don't want in in my studio or on my body. Oh. And I'm using 24k, or 100% Gold to do the overlay with, meaning you are purchasing almost pure gold over almost pure silver. I feel good about that! And I hope you do too!

Whew! I'm super glad we talked about that Jewelry Fans! Walking on the Nerdy side ain't so bad every once in a while, eh? And, it's just me being my Authentic Nerdy Self.

What's your Authentic Self?? I'd love to hear in the comments. 

#BeAuthentic




Leave a comment

Comments will be approved before showing up.


Also in Journal

Artist Margaret Aden with Finn (who is blind during the day)
Walking Blind

January 29, 2024

But what I’ve noticed lately is just how BRAVE Finn is every day. He boldly walks around in full sunlight; having memorized where the posts to the porch are, how to get up and down across the terraced, brick landscaping in the yard. He knows where my utility trailer is parked and avoids it while he takes care of his personal business. Finn even knows where the pool is and how to avoid falling in while walking around the whole thing. (I mean, that last part was learned the hard way, he falls in once or twice a year and we fish him out and dry him off. Big dogs have big wet dog smells too.)

Continue Reading

What’s the What with Cleaning your OSJ Jewelry
What’s the What with Cleaning your OSJ Jewelry

March 07, 2023

Quick list of things that cause sterling silver to tarnish: oxygen, hydrogen sulfide (small component of our actual air), sulfur (rotten egg smell in Florida water or hot springs all over), acids (some face creams, trace amounts in tissues and paper), acids (also include your personal pH based on the water you drink and the food you eat!), chlorine (pools, shower water, cleaning the toilet) and general moisture (live in the South or East Coast anyone??)

Continue Reading

The Thing About Turquoise…
The Thing About Turquoise…

January 26, 2023

The colors and shades and differing colored matrices of turquoise are unique to each region and mine where turquoise is found. Sometimes, like in Bisbee, AZ, finding turquoise is a byproduct of copper mining. Each area reflects the minerals and elements present when the seams of turquoise are formed and the matrix the host rock or sedimentary rock which was not dissolved. Truly, each piece is one of a kind.

Continue Reading